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Romania

Romania's Danube Delta

Remote and special. This is why we travel!
I can't believe I had never been to Romania's Danube Delta. So close to Bulgaria, and so close to my favourite place in Bulgaria - the coast near Tyulenovo and Kamen Bryag. And even more strange given that Romania was the first ever country I visited in my life, on my first birthday, and it is one of the countries I have visited the most.

But then, Romania has always been the odd one. I have been so passionate exploring Serbia, Ukraine, Moldova, Turkey, Macedonia, Albania... but Romania always stayed away. It was my colleague Stefan who pressed hard to make Romania tours. I was the one who insisted we add Moldova, Transnistria and Odessa to them :-)
The Danube Delta in Romania feels like a completely different world from the rest of Romania. It feels closer to Ukraine, to Russia, even to places far away in Siberia, to villages on the shores of lake Baikal, to hamlets in northern Kyrgyzstan... to all those places which have a large number of historic Russian settlers.

The Russians here in the Delta are old believers, exiled when they refused to reform their old church traditions. The men wear beards, the women - headscarves. You can meet old believers in Bulgaria too; and in Georgia and Armenia (we even visit one group of them in Georgia). Here in Romania the Russian old believers speak a curious blend of Russian and Romanian; they mix the two languages. Their Russian is archaic, and comes with a heavy Romanian Latin accent.
To reach the Delta, you can take the public boat from Tulcea, which is slow and sort of irregular, or get a private speed boat (which is fast, but windy!). There are three main Danube channels - St George, Sulina and Chilia. I explored all three, and I found the northern one, Chilia, to be the most interesting. And the most remote. It borders on Ukraine to the north.

Periprava, a small, remote, Russian old believer Russian, I found to be the most interesting settlement on the Danube Chilia arm. You see, Sulina, in the middle of the Delta, is interesting and historic, but it is too big. The lounge bars, the the wide paved streets, the schools - you just feel you are in a big town even if there are just a few cars. St George is somewhat in between - both remote and civilised, yet not as charming as the villages to the north. And much more commercial and touristy.

Periprava, with its old Russian, Siberian-style wooden houses and churches, the remains of the old communist-era labour camp, the Letea sub-tropical forests, the thousands of wild horses, the fishermen, the birds... there is so much to explore and enjoy here, away from the crowds of usual tourist destinations. Oh, and did I mention the wild empty sand beaches?

The food is mainly fish, coming from the Danube and from the Black Sea. It is served with a bit of fresh vegetables that people grow in their backyards. It's rustic and tasty and fresh.
The Danube delta is just spectacular. Remote and isolated; it offers a glimpse to an old life that has since disappeared elsewhere. There are no cars here - people take the boat to travel. At night it is very quiet.

I am next looking forward to exploring the Ukrainian part of the Danube Delta. It may be even more interesting - will report!

We are planning to include the Danube Delta, both Ukrainian and Romanian side, on our future tours of the Black Sea (starting in Odessa and ending in Istanbul and/or Trabzon). We are also planning to include it as an optional add-on to our Romania, Moldova and Odessa tours, for those seeking something off-the-beaten trail after you've explored the rest of the region. Stay tuned! We are so excited and so in love with all our destinations - from the Balkans to Central Asia and Mongolia and Siberia. We feel blessed to be able to travel and explore, even in the hard times of now.
Text and images - Yuri Boyanin

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