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Bulgaria

Christmas Tales

or how Sofia celebrated the Nativity a century ago
Twas’ the night before Christmas… But no reindeer, no Saint Nicholas to be seen in Sofia, Bulgaria’s capital. How did we celebrate this holy day a century ago?

For a majority of Bulgarians, Christmas Eve had always been more important than the Christmas Day. December 24 was the last day of the Christmas lent and the festive dinner was the highlight of all celebrations. There had to be an odd number of dishes on the table and they must be all vegan. But before sitting on the table, the eldest male family member was to say a prayer and light incense, then go from room to room, chasing the evil spirits away. Only then could the family sit and share the food and the good mood. 

Traditionally, meals were based around grains that expanded during cooking – so was the family’s fortune and health supposed to expand during the year. The most typical recipes included dried red peppers stuffed with beans; vine leaves stuffed with rice and raisins; picked cabbage stuffed with bulgur; dried fruits and, in the centre of all, a pita bread with a hidden coin inside. The lucky member of the family to bite into the coin was to be exceptionally healthy during the coming year. Families were always careful to keep the first piece of the bread on the house icon of the Virgin Mary. 

Anyway, you could not go to bed early that night. Young men called koledari come around midnight to sing songs, blessing the family and their home with fertility and health. Only after receiving a blessing could they go to bed. 
What about the Christmas tree? Initially, as in most of the world, this was not a local tradition. The first Christmas tree in Bulgaria was decorated in the winter of 1877, during the last Russo-Turkish war, by soldiers at the headquarters of Russian General Gurko. In just three months, Bulgaria would re-appear on the map of Europe. And the Christmas tree would start appearing in homes.

The price of glass decorations started at 10-15 Bulgarian leva and went as high as 100 leva; 100 leva was enough for a middle class family of four to live for a month. The costs of expensive Christmas decorations were the reason why many families made their own decorations using cotton wool, dried fruit and popcorn. 

And anything under the Christmas tree? Presents became popular after the 1880s and they were mostly for children. The most typical present was a book with stories or poems, richly decorated, and with a hard cover. It was not cheap, but parents wanted to plant the love of books and education to their young children. Of course, dolls for the girls and balls for the boys were another typical gift. 

And who wouldn’t appreciate a beautiful Christmas card? They became popular in the 1890s, and even the Balkan wars of 1912-13 and the Great War (the one to end all wars) did not change this. Surprisingly, the first cards send for Christmas were more like postcards with urban and natural landscapes rather than something traditional and festive. All the wishes and the address of the recipient were written on the face of the card. Slowly, in the 1930s and 40s these were replaced by more festive cards.

Christmas balls became popular in the first years after the Liberation of 1878. The first ball was organized by Prince Alexander Battenberg in the Royal Palace. More than a hundred guests were invited, diplomats, high-ranking military officers, state officials and businessmen. Princess Clementine, the mother of Tsar Ferdinand, Bulgaria’s second modern ruler, made them widespread in society; she organized hugely popular charity balls in the Royal Palace and the Military Club in Sofia. 
Christmas is still a very family holiday in Bulgaria. Traditions are kept, but they are slightly different in each region, even in each family.  

Thinking of Christmas puts a smile on our faces. Snow; streets quiet; a warm, festive meal surrounded by your family; and gifts. 

We hope, no matter where you may be on the planet, that you will have a wonderful Christmas, and that you will feel loved. 
Text - Stefan Bozadzhiev

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